Mount Khuiten, in the center of Mongolia’s Altai Tavan Bogd (Five Holy Peaks), is one of the world’s most inaccessible peaks. Also known as Khüiten Peak is located on the border of China and Mongolia in Altai Tavan Bogd National Park.

Mount Khuiten is the tallest of Mongolia’s five golden peaks, sitting at a staggering 4374 metres. If you’re feeling adventurous and up for the challenge, then this is definitely the hike for you!

You will need to bring technical gear such as ice axes and crampons to reach the summit, but trust me when I say that it is more than worth it once you get there.

The views from Mount Khuiten base camp into China, Russia and Kazakhstan are truly breathtaking and something that cannot be missed.

For our Mount Khuiten ascent expedition, we will have the assistance of local Kazakh herders who will act as camel leaders and porters. They will also share their culture and traditions with us throughout the journey.

HOW DO YOU GET TO KHUITEN PEAK?

  •  First, get yourself to Ölgii in Western Mongolia.

The easiest way to get to Tavan Bogd is by flying from UlaanBataar into Ölgii. However, it’s important that you book your ticket in advance as flights are limited.

climb to khuiten 06

Alternatively, one could take a bus ride (that would last quite some time) from Ulaan Bataar or fly into Khovd and then hire a jeep for 4 hour ride to Ölgii. Flying from Almaty, Kazakhstan is another option although there aren’t many flights leaving from there.

Once arriving in Ölgii developments, you’ll need transportation via jeep to the Tavan Bogd region along with horses carrying all of your belongings and food rations for basecamp–and don’t forget your permit!

Khuiten ABC camp 1
  • From Ölgii, a beautiful 4-5 hour jeep ride gets you to Altai Tavan Bogd National Park, where you’ll be dropped off with your horseman.

From the border of the park to basecamp, it is a 10-mile (16km) journey. Your horseman will lead the way, but if you choose to go on your own, maps of Mongolia are available for purchase there.

Keep in mind that the terrain is bumpy and uneven, with potential challenging stream crossings and stretches of mud. If you’re carrying a large pack, this could be quite difficult.

CLIMBING THE KHUITEN PEAK

It’s a lovely trek to our Base Camp on the Potaniin Glacier of the Tavan Bogd Massif, which is located in the Tian Shan Mountains. We’ll be riding on Bactrian camels (two-humped), which can carry up to 200 kilograms each. This region of the Altai Mountains is quite close to Russia and China’s border.

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You might stay at Base Camp for a few nights as you acclimate and do some glacier travel training before moving up the Potaniin Glacier to High Camp. It’s “dry” glacier down low (hard ice with no snow) but we enter glacial snow zone higher up. Once on the glacier, it would be wise to rope up.

Potanin glacier 1

Food and camping gear will be carried by porters to the high camp, while members will carry their personal items (personal porters are available at an additional charge).

OTHER MOUNTAINS YOU CAN CLIMB THERE

Malchin (4050m) and Naraimdal (4003m) are commonly climbed with Khüiten.

  • Monchinski sits on the border between Mongolia and Russia, has stunning views of Khüiten, and is an excellent acclimatization walk from base camp. It’s usually trekked by trekking groups, with a stated use route all the way to the top.
  • Naraimdal, or friendship peak, is a lower rounded off bump located where the ridgeline separating Russia and China meets the one between Khüiten and Malchin. It is especially interesting as it marks the tri-border point of these three countries: Russia, Mongolia, and China.

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